1937-1938 four door eight cylinder touring car.

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Bluedevil
Posts: 245
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2018 7:07 am

Re: 1937-1938 four door eight cylinder touring car.

Post by Bluedevil » Fri May 14, 2021 4:27 am

Sorry, I was looking at the wrong car number, your car is 34,682 later than mine, which would make it a '38, I think.

Now that makes more sense.

Reanimator
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2020 2:22 pm

Re: 1937-1938 four door eight cylinder touring car.

Post by Reanimator » Mon May 17, 2021 5:21 am

Bluedevil wrote:
Fri May 14, 2021 4:20 am
My car is an early '38 and your theft proof number is 30,000 before mine, which would indicate '37???

The Decal car tag is indicative of '38.

Perplexing

I've noticed the 38 seems to be a bit of an oddball. I've noticed quite a few things different from 37 and earlier models, and different from 39 and later models. The decal thing is one of them.

The radio control head is another. It looks like only a 1938 will fit a 1938. The radiator seems to be from 37 or earlier, but the iron head seems to be from a 39 or later.

Reanimator
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2020 2:22 pm

Re: 1937-1938 four door eight cylinder touring car.

Post by Reanimator » Mon May 17, 2021 5:38 am

Put the water pump and generator on and then rigged a temporary radiator so that I could run the engine for awhile to get a better idea of what sort of condition it is in.


Oil pressure is maxed out. Makes me wonder if something is wrong there. Temperature gauge fitting leaks, but the temperature gauge appears to be working.


Ran the engine for several minutes. It runs fairly smooth but i'm getting some popping in the exhaust. The vacuum advance is still not connected and it appears that the diaphragm is leaking anyways so i'm going to have to get another one. Throttle response is still not good, but it does rev if you move it slowly. I'm hoping the vacuum advance will straighten this out a bit.

Water pump leaks out of the weep hole, of course.


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Bluedevil
Posts: 245
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2018 7:07 am

Re: 1937-1938 four door eight cylinder touring car.

Post by Bluedevil » Mon May 17, 2021 9:04 am

Sounds like you are making progress. I would get the vacuum sorted out first. Centrifugal advance takes longer to show affects, I think and vacuum is pretty quick.

Reanimator
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2020 2:22 pm

Re: 1937-1938 four door eight cylinder touring car.

Post by Reanimator » Fri May 28, 2021 12:19 pm

Here is my solution for the vacuum advance problem.
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I reasoned a NOS part would quickly become no good if it was not already no good. Modernish 350 Chevy vacuum advance was available for $14.33, so I just robbed the diaphragm out of it.

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It holds vacuum, and it pulls in when I put a vacuum on it. Will try it on the car as soon as I get a chance.

Reanimator
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2020 2:22 pm

Re: 1937-1938 four door eight cylinder touring car.

Post by Reanimator » Mon Jun 07, 2021 12:47 pm

Took a look at the fuel pump. Surely it would need new diaphragms. There is no way 83 year old rubber diaphragms would still be good.

I took apart the vacuum side. Surprised to discover the rubber was supple and only showed damage on the edges where it had been exposed to the outside of the pump.
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I then noticed what looked like the remnants of a remanufactured sticker on the side of the pump. This pump must have been replaced at some point, probably in the 1970s.
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The tag on the car says 1978, so I'm going to assume it was drivable during that year.

Because the vacuum side diaphragm looked so good, I decided to just install the pump and see if it would work.

Reanimator
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2020 2:22 pm

Re: 1937-1938 four door eight cylinder touring car.

Post by Reanimator » Mon Jun 07, 2021 1:13 pm

I installed the fuel pump. I initially installed it with it's normal steel fuel line going to the carburetor, but then I got to thinking that perhaps over the years dust or insects may have gotten into the fuel side of the fuel pump, and the last thing I wanted to do would be to pump crap into my carburetor. I decided to put an inline fuel filter at the carb inlet to catch anything that might dislodge from the inside of the pump. I intend to leave it that way for awhile, but will eventually reinstall the actual steel fuel line that is supposed to feed the carb.

Started the engine and the fuel pump works just fine.

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Vacuum advance also works. Throttle response is crisp.

Note my rigged throttle control rod. I'll get a correct one later, but this will do until more serious problems are overcome.

While I had it running, I tested the clutch. The clutch releases and it engages.

Brake pedal is completely locked up. Master cylinder is frozen. I removed it and I will see what can be done to get it working. All the flexible brake lines are rotted off the car. The steel lines look okay, but I won't know for sure until I put them under pressure.

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