1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

[Tinman_70]

Learned a lesson about upgrading old cars to electronic ignition in the place of points and condensers. When I first worked on the car, I replaced the rotten spark plug wires with a set I made up using Packard 440 solid plug wires. When the car was still 6 volt positive ground, I switched it over to the Pertronix Electronic Ignition and kept the solid wires. I completely ignored the bold CAUTION!!! at the very top of the installation instructions - "DO NOT USE SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES. Use carbon or suppression type spark plug wires". I apparently got away with it while running 6 volts. When I converted to 12 volt negative ground, I wasn't as lucky. After about 300 miles the pickup failed. I have a new set of wires and electronic pickup replacement on order.

If you decide to convert to electronic ignition, make sure you comply with the manufacturer's instructions and that all the components in the ignition and charging systems are in good condition.

[Tinman_70]

Bought a set of universal suppression spark plug wires with right angle spark plug boots and open distributor ends. Got out the necessary tools and replaced the solid core wires one at a time. Bought a replacement Pertonix module, replaced it in the distributor and connected the coil wires. About as easy to replace as a set of points but cost $80! Buttoned everything up, turned the key, pressed started button and the car fired right up after sitting in a cold shop for 3 weeks. Put some addition spark plug wire build pictures on the Packard Series 22/23 Facebook page.

[brian james]

hello i am trying to repair the seat adjuster on my 1950, can you help me figure out how to remove seat frame?

[Prudence]

Good Morning...It seems to me that our 49 has the seat frame bolted through the body pan with four bolts, two on each side...You may have to grind them off and use new ones...they might be pretty hard to get loose...Ernie in Arizona

[Howard56]

Confirmed. To get the entire seat frame and positioning tracks out you will need to go under and loosen bolts on each side and then lift the entire assy out. I believe there may be 4 nuts - 2 at front and 2 at the rear - on each side since the seat is very similar to the earlier models. There should also be a fairly large spring toward the middle of the frame. The lower seat cushion should lift up to access the frame structure and get to the spring. Also take note of the number and position of any cardboard or wooden shims so you can reinstall them in the same places at the front or rear of the track mechanism where it bolts to the floor.

[Tinman_70]

Howard has an excellent description. You may be able to work on the seat adjuster without removing the seat frame. The bottom cushion of the front reat removed by pulling up on the front. This will give you more access to the adjuster mechanism. Maybe it just needs some cleaning and lubrication. I think it might be easier to work on the adjuster with the seat bolted in. You can push it up and back while it is secured rather than when it is removed. If you need to remove the seat frame there a 4 bolts on each side, 2 in the back and 2 in the front along with the seat spring in the middle that Howard mentioned. I thought I had a picture but all I could fine was the adapter to move the seat back. The 4 hex-head bolts are the original seat mounting bolts and the studs sticking up are for repositioning the seat 3" back so I would fit in the car! People in the '50s must have been a lot shorter and thinner!

[Tudisco]

Hi

Can I ask where you got your tank set up from ? I have a 49 sedan that someone installed a fuel cell in the trunk with no gas gauge. I would really like to get a gas tank underneath again and get the fuel gauge working. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

Pat

[Tinman_70]

My tank is from a 53/54 Chevy from "Tanks". Takes quite a bit of plumbing to make it work.