1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

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Tinman_70
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by Tinman_70 » Thu Sep 03, 2015 6:52 am

It was time to start the Packard engine. I used 30W Lucas Oil break-in oil for the engine and SAE 90 GL-1 for the transmission, overdrive and rear differential. These are my preferences not a recommendation.
P9031625.jpg
All of the steel vacuum lines were replaced along with the rest of the gas lines. Rather than place the optional gas filter directly to the carburetor and over the exhaust manifold, it was moved away with the new gas line.
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Rather put gas in the gas tank, the line was disconnected at the electric fuel pump and an extension added into a container with ethanol-free gasoline. The fuel pump was temporarily wired to supply fuel to the carburetor. Once the engine is started, tuned and broken in, the fuel system will be drained to prevent fuel deterioration while the rest of the project is completed and the car is ready to drive.
P9031626.jpg
When the engine is stored, the water will also be drained from the engine. The help get the block drained, a petcock with a hose extension was added in place of a plug.
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In preparation for starting, the ignition circuit was temporarily wired (hot-wired) and a remote starter switch was attached to the starter solenoid and the battery. A temporary oil pressure gauge was also installed.

My distributor is equipped with a Pertronix Ignitor 1183P6 electronic ignition. There has been a great deal of conjecture about this arrangement versus a points ignition. I called Pertronix tech support to ask about the correct components for the system. They advised that I use the recommended ignition coil that is on the last page of the installation instructions (attached). For 6V applications it is #45011 (black) which is 0.6 ohms rather than those that are higher resistance. Also, any ballast resistors, if equipped, need to be removed. All ignition wires need to be securely connected.
P9031628.jpg
Coil Char_2t.jpg


With the help of a couple of friends, one with the timing light, one on the distributor and myself on the carburetor and remote starter switch. With engine primed it was cranked until it fired up and ran at fast idle. The timing was set at 6 degrees and the oil pressure was checked to be in the 35 to 40 PSI range. At that point the engine was shut off. The water pump lower outlet was blocked with a rubber cap and the block was filled with distilled water, the upper connection on the head was also blocked and the fan belt was removed. The engine was re-started and run at idle and the carburetor idle screws were adjusted for a smooth idle. The next step will be to install the radiator so the engine break-in can be completed.
P9031627.jpg
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Dave Czirr
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by Dave Czirr » Thu Sep 03, 2015 7:30 am

No first-hand experience but there are many who say that draining an engine block or radiator and leaving it to dry promotes rusting of the block and degradation of the solder in radiators. These folks strongly recommend leaving the systems full of fresh AF or water and a corrosion inhibitor. Can't say one way or the other but their comment seems to have logic on it's side. Compliments on your work, engine cosmetics are very nice!

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Tinman_70
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by Tinman_70 » Thu Sep 03, 2015 11:53 am

I was planning to run some NAPA MAC 1300 anti-rust with the distilled water for the break-in. Then drain for storage. Not a recommendation, just a personal preference.
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by Tinman_70 » Fri Sep 04, 2015 7:56 am

I installed the radiator in the support and measured for the upper and lower hoses. I don’t intend to use the flexible “fits-all” hoses or hoses with a metal segment. I went to the Gates Hose Guide (117 page PDF file) and looked up hoses that were the right diameter and length. Picked a couple that looked like they would work and ordered them from Amazon Prime. Due to the US Labor Day holiday, the 2-day free shipping will not arrive until Tuesday.

While I’m waiting there is a pile of sheetmetal that needs some attention. There are a number of pieces of inner panel sheetmetal that needs repair, cleaning, primer and paint or undercoating as well as the replacement of the rubber seals that have rotted away.
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The first step was to try to make some replacement patterns from whatever remained of the original. Patterns were made to go around the air ducts and the flaps over the upper control arms.
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After that, the steel staples and rivets that retained the seals were removed. After any necessary repairs, the under hood sides of the panels will stripped with paint remover than media blasted and primed and painted with semi-gloss black paint. The under fender side of the panels will be scrubbed with soap and water and undercoated.
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Tinman_70
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by Tinman_70 » Sun Sep 06, 2015 6:20 am

Dave Czirr wrote:No first-hand experience but there are many who say that draining an engine block or radiator and leaving it to dry promotes rusting of the block and degradation of the solder in radiators. These folks strongly recommend leaving the systems full of fresh AF or water and a corrosion inhibitor. Can't say one way or the other but their comment seems to have logic on it's side. Compliments on your work, engine cosmetics are very nice!
I'm going to take Dave's advice. I'm finding it is difficult to drain all the coolant out of the engine block. When the radiator comes back off for external cleaning and painting with Eastwood radiator paint, I'm going to cap the lower water pump outlet and fill the block with anti-freeze through a heater outlet in the head. Then cap off the upper radiator hose neck in the head once the block is full. I'll store it this way until the engine is ready to run again. This will be a much better way to prevent rust than leaving it "semi-dry". As usual, good advice from Dave.
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by Tinman_70 » Wed Sep 09, 2015 7:23 am

The Gates radiator hoses arrived from Amazon yesterday. These were the ones I found using the Gates Hose Guide. The guide is a listing of 3 to 4,000 Gates hoses with pictures and dimensions. The 2 hoses cost $41 with free shipping. I picked 2 that were the right size, shape and long enough to fit the application. I'm not using the metal segment that is apparently in the original lower hose, the car did not have it. I'm not sure of its purpose, whether to keep the hose from collapsing or to protect it from the front motor mount or the radiator support. To be safe in either case, I'm going to install a piece of 2.25" ID fuel tank filler hose over the lower hose at the final installation.
Attachments
P9031629.jpg
New upper hose with old hose
P9031630.jpg
New lower hose cut to fit
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New lower hose - very long
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New lower hose - extra 90 degree bend cut off
P9091641.jpg
Upper hose installed with standard hose clamps
P9091643.jpg
Lower hose installed - close to front motor mount
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by Dave Czirr » Wed Sep 09, 2015 7:42 am

I just abhor those fluted "one size fits all" hoses, glad you're not using one. Whenever I see one all that comes to mind is that the owner was just too lazy to find a correctly shaped hose (or to buy the correct hose from Max or Kanter), and thus I wonder about whatever other shortcuts he took that don't show.

JWLawrence
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by JWLawrence » Wed Sep 09, 2015 7:59 am

Tinman --- Just noticed you posted and update writhing about using GL-1 90W gear oil in the trans, od, and diff. DO NOT USE GL-1 IN THE DIFFERENTIAL!!! Use GL-5! Many of us use 85W-140 GL-5 gear oil in our trans, ods, and diffs. GL-5 will work in the trans and od, but GL-1 will not work in the diff.

(o{}o)

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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by JWLawrence » Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:06 am

Tinman --- Just noticed another of your update postings writing about using distilled water and anti-freeze in the engine while it is in storage. Some have cautioned against using distilled water because of its leaching action. To be on the safe side I would use de-ionized water and anti-freeze mixture. Do not use the new lifetime antifreeze, use the old green ethelene glycol (sp.?) permanent type. And, yes congrats on a most attractive engine.

(o{}o)

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Tinman_70
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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Post by Tinman_70 » Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:49 am

I’ve found many ghastly shortcuts that prior owners used in the attempt get this car running again. Even with all the shortcuts, economic reality eventually sets in and they threw up their hands and abandoned the project. I’ve tried to overcome their shortcuts with a few of my own to insure that this project does not simply get abandoned like so many others. I don’t want this car to just be running but to be something much more than that.
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