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Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2015 10:51 am
by Tinman_70
All the under hood panels were in rough condition, mostly surface rust pits and some fatigue cracks. The first step was to use paint remover to get the inside paint off. The outsides under the fenders will be cleaned to remove dirt then undercoated.
The small plastic tie through bolt hole designates the driver's side panel
Used Klean-Strip Aircraft Paint Remover from Auto Body Toolmart - 18 OZ aerosol can

After most of the paint was removed, the panels were media blasted to remove surface rust and remaining paint and the surface roughed-up for body filler. A light coat of body filler was applied to the most notable places on the inside of the panels. A couple of cracks were MIG welded to keep the cracks from spreading.
Panel on the top has been media blasted, bottom just paint remover before blasting
The filler was sanded smooth and the panels primed. The front air intake panels were badly pitted. They were media blasted, then painted with Eastwood Textured Rust Encapsulator. I was disappointed that the texture was really not very good at hiding the rust pits.
The under fender splash panels were in very good condition. Both sides were sprayed with Eastwood Rubberized Undercoating from an aerosol can. They look good, the undercoating dries hard with a nice texture almost like truck bedliner. Have to spray fast from a good distance (about 18”) and keep the applicator moving or you will wind up with a glob of undercoating.
The splash pans must have come with the Series 22 fenders and hood - no rust

The clamps that secure the long air ducts to the firewall and front air intake panels were a mess. They had deteriorated rubber seals plus a few auto inner tube rubber pieces. They were scrapped, wire brushed and media blasted then primed and painted with some of the Rust Encapsulator. The ends of the long air ducts where the clamps attach were cleaned and primed then masked off. The ducts were cleaned with soap and water then dried and undercoated.
Used a heat gun and knife to remove the old rubber duct seals
Air ducts undercoated, clamps cleaned and painted

Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2015 5:53 pm
by genehouse
Joe, when you said, " I don’t want this car to just be running but to be something much more than that." I thought, "This car is already WAY beyond the point of being "just running". You are well on your way to having one of the nicest Anniversary Packard Automobiles on the road today. I'd bet that any of us would be happy to ride with you in it. And, you will be able to go wherever you want to without fear of a breakdown. As I've said before and don't mind saying again, my hat is off to you. I just hope to do half as good a job on the 26 when I am able to finally go and get it. I really hope the guy will hold it for me until I am able to make the trip!

Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:47 am
by Tinman_70
JWLawrence wrote:Tinman --- Just noticed you posted and update writhing about using GL-1 90W gear oil in the trans, od, and diff. DO NOT USE GL-1 IN THE DIFFERENTIAL!!! Use GL-5! Many of us use 85W-140 GL-5 gear oil in our trans, ods, and diffs. GL-5 will work in the trans and od, but GL-1 will not work in the diff.

JW - Did you mean to say GL-1 would work in trans and OD but not in the diff?

Thanks for the tip, the wheels are not on the ground yet, I'll find some Gl-5 and drain the differential before getting it rolling.


Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:11 am
by Tinman_70
I took a week off to go to some car shows and visit family, but before I left, I did get the engine started and run for an extended time. With the radiator on and filled with water and all the electrics "hot-wired", the engine was run in stages from 1,000, 1,500 and 2,000 RPMs. Since it was indoors, a shop fan was run in front of the radiator. The engine was run for about 20 minutes with no signs of overheating, leaking or smoking (once the exhaust header paint cured). I drained the coolant before I left. I'm going to refill it and start the engine again. I need to wire the alternator and check the output as well as double check the vacuum and mechanical advance timing. Once that is done, I'm going to drain the coolant, remove the radiator for final paint prep, flush the block, cap the block coolant inlet and outlet and fill with anti-freeze. This phase of the project will be put aside for a while I'm doing the bodywork.
All "hot-wired" and the engine is running in the picture.

Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:22 am
by Dave Czirr
Looking good, great progress.

A rear axle gear oil MUST have a hypoid or extreme pressure rating which is not required for the trans, overdrive or steering gear. GL-1 is simple mineral gear oil without additives other than a defoamer.

Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 9:18 am
by Tinman_70
I’ve been involved with some car shows lately and haven’t had much free time to work on the Packard.

I was able to get the chassis back on its wheels and tires so it could be rolled around the shop. The engine was fired back up with the temporary wiring to make some final checks before putting it aside to work on the body.

The engine was started and run for several sessions lasting about an hour total. After a long run at both low and fast idle, the block temperature was checked with a non-contact gauge all along the head and block to make sure it wasn’t overheating. It never went over 180 degrees so it doesn’t appear that overheating will be a problem. The ignition timing was checked to make sure the initial, vacuum and mechanical timing were set correctly. The engine was started with the electric fuel pump then it was shut off and run on the mechanical pump. Both worked correctly. A fuel pressure gauge is going to be added to the 1/8" NPT port on the fuel pump. Checked the manifold vacuum at steady idle (600 RPM) and it was 19 - 20 inches. Installed the "Marvel" oiler port between the manifold and carburetor to check the vacuum.

The new alternator was connected to the battery to test its output. I am staying with the 6 volt, positive ground system but replacing the generator and regulator with a modified GM CS130 single wire alternator set up for the 6V system. Its output at warm idle is 7.2 volts.

One problem I did run into is with the carburetor. The leather accelerator pump cup is worn out and the needle and seat has a tendency to stick closed. A carburetor kit is going to be necessary.

During the runs, the radiator was also flushed several times with fresh water until it ran clear.

I was able to move the chassis out into the sunshine so that the body could be moved around to check the mobility of the body dolly. It has been sitting for quite a while and the wheels needed be lubed to make sure it would roll easily.
I obtained a canvas temporary shelter where I can do the body work without getting sanding dust in the shop. It was set up on a concrete slab at the side of the shop.

With most of the drivetrain work completed, except for the carburetor, it has been covered up and put aside until the body is ready to be put back on the chassis.

Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 6:52 am
by Tinman_70
I’ve been busy with car shows and swap meets for the last few weeks but was able to get some time to work on finishing up the Packard radiator. The radiator was acid flushed, neutralized, leak and flow checked. The fins were straightened and cleaned and given two light coats of Eastwood black radiator paint to give them some color. The tanks and mounting brackets were wire brushed and sanded then primed and painted with high-temp primer and satin black paint. A new 7# radiator cap was added along with a new ¼“ NPT drain petcock. It’s ready to be re-installed.
Eastwood paint colors the fins without reducing cooling
High temp paint on the tanks and mounting brackets
Finished radiator
Paint products used
I’m going to start the body work by cleaning, seam sealing and undercoating the bottom of the floor and trunk pans. The firewall will be stripped, cleaned and primed then the exterior body work will begin.

Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:53 am
by Tinman_70
I was finally able to roll the body out into the sun light. I had to work fast to get it under my temporary bodywork shelter before the rain started. I’m going to start by cleaning the underside of the body then sealing all the seams and undercoating it. The badly leaking rear transmission seal has left a mess on the underside of the body as it also did to the chassis, I’ll tackle it first.
The rain is coming down very hard so going to work on the fender skirts inside.

Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 11:53 am
by Tinman_70
I did finish up the fender skirts while waiting on the weather. These are the last pieces of exterior body sheetmetal to be cleaned and primed. Drilled out all the rivets that held the deteriorated welting. Used stripper to remove most of the paint and primer. Then they were media blasted to remove anything that was left. They’re ready for some primer.

The skirts were free of rust except for the pins that locate the skirt to the fender. They picked up some rust from water wicking in the fiber welting. Haven’t decided what kind of welting to use but it will probably be plastic.

Re: 1949 Packard 8 Club Sedan

Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2015 6:14 am
by Tinman_70
I started the under body cleanup prior to seam sealing and undercoating. The first step was to remove the caked grease from badly leaking rear transmission seal. The grease and dirt were over an inch thick. As I noted in a prior post, the seal was likely damaged by driveshaft vibration because of incorrect indexing of the 2-piece driveshaft spline, probably when the rear universal joint was replaced sometime in the past. The Packard manual shows exactly how it should properly be re-installed.
After removing the grease, I started to scrape of the old undercoating from the back fender wells. The body dolly was placed on jack stands to raise the body to make the job easier. This is where a body rotisserie would come in handy. About half of the undercoating just came off in sheets, some pieces as large as a dinner plate. The other half is stuck tight. I’m going to roll the car out and try power washing before trying any additional scrapping.