UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

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Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:02 am
Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Wed Jan 21, 2015 11:28 am

Rewiring - Continued

Having successfully (I hope) installed the main dash, complete with instruments, switches, and cowl wiring loom, it was time to carry on with the wiring. The kit I bought has a main secondary loom that runs from the cowl loom in the engine bay all the way to the back of the car; the two join with soldered push-connectors, so I joined these up, then tied each push connector individually, before finally double-taping the two looms together; that should ensure the push connectors each stay firmly linked as well as weatherproofing the joint.

On my RHD car, the loom emerges through the bulkhead on the left side of the car, which on a standard LHD would be behind the drivers side of the dash but on mine is behind the glove box -much less cluttered which is great and mades access much easier. Once in the engine bay, the loom runs straight down, with engine bay sub-looms branching off, before it leaves the engine bay through a hole at the bottom of the bulkhead near the body mount, and then runs down through the chassis under the car from where it runs to the back of the car along the inside of the left chassis member. Cutting out the old loom and running the new one the new loom was fiddly, but very straightforward; thats now loosely in place waiting for me to wire the rear of the car (another day !).

Returning to the engine bay wiring, the connection block on the inner wing for headlight wiring was pretty cruddy, so that and the wing itself was stripped, refurbished and refitted as a good base for the new wires. One branch from the main loom went to that block and also the generator; so far I've found the remade loom kit (from Harnesses Unlimited) to be of excellent quality and everything there; the right connectors are almost all ready-fitted throughout, but in my case the non-standard 12-volt generator has spade terminals nor screws as per the harness, so I will have to swop these before fitting.

A separate branch runs behind the engine across the bulkhead to feed the high/low beam switch, horn, etc. In my case I had a lovely NOS stock switch to replace my cruddy original (see pic) -wiring/fitting was a doddle, my only problem being I'm not sure which side of the switch is 'high' and which 'low' beam (this matters as the loom has feeds for both of course, but only one feeds the 'high beam' indicator light on the dash). I've a 50/50 chance of being right, and even if I'm wrong will only have to swop these over -not a big job.

Moving to the front of the car, from the connection block on the inner left wing, two sub-looms run to either side of the car; these wire the headlights and running lights. I started with the left side first.

The headlamp bowl had a fitting at the rear that allowed the wires through from the loom and into the headlamp bowl; this was a mess, and the fitting had been hacked about. The new loom came with a covering sleeve, so I took the old fitting out of the bowl, modified it to take the new sleeve, and after stripping/repainting, fitted it into the bowl, sealed on the inside with an industrial adhesive mastic to give a solid and waterproof seal. I cut a notch in this sleeve just where it passed under the hole in the fender for the running light wires, and then I fed the three headlamp wires through from the lamp end (the socket was already fitted). The two wires for the running light I fed through the wing, into the sleeve through the notch, and then into the car; after connecting everything up and refitting the headlamp, that was just about 'job done' on that side. Other than feeding the RH loom across the front of the car to the connection block, I expect the other side to be as straightforward.

One slight modification was the running light. I always intended to fit indicators, and had this wiring incorporated into the new loom, so having previously rechromed/refurbished the unit, I now replaced the bulb wiring with a new twin-terminal inner socket kit (eBay), and soldered a back-up earth wire to the socket outer, 'just in case' (I hate trying to find wiring faults caused by dodgy earths...). I am intending to fit a dual filament lamp, with one as the running light, and the other as the indicator. The bulb is in place; all I need to do now is figure out which of the two wires feeds which filament and then make the connections and rebolt the lamp to the wing.

All this took me a full day (OK I'm slow, but that includes 'figuring out stuff' time...), but suddenly the detail of the car is coming together, and I have to say the wiring kit is proving not to difficult, even for a non-electrician like myself. The next step is to figure out the wiring from the loom to the horn relay, and also to the Regulator, another non-standard 12v Lucas Unit, and then the core wiring to run the car should be just about complete.

Separately, I ordered a few 'add-on' wires to supply the period accessories, including spot lamps, reversing light, radio, heater and defroster. Looking in the Owners manual, there is an excellent (and simple) wiring diagram for all these, which even shows the feeds via dash switches to supply lights only when the main car lights are switched on. Excellent !

More soon; time for a bath and a glass to warm my old bones (heavy snow here today -pretty to look at but not good for garage working when your a softy like me), and think about the next job(s)...
Original connector wiring - ugh..
Refurbished with new loom connections - much better.
Old vs New Old Stock - a big improvement

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Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:02 am
Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Tue Mar 31, 2015 5:27 am

Installing the Glass

The original glass in my car was far from perfect; some pieces were cracked, and most had some delamination or misting, so replacement was the only option, sadly with clear as I couldn't find any blue-tinted glass to replace what I took out. Similarly, the channels and rubbers were mainly aftermarket and very rough, so they had to go too. Weirdest of all however, were the quarter frames, every one of which had rusted right through on the bottom channel; not good !

John Ulrich saved the day with better SH frames which were duly stripped, rechromed, and rebuilt, all with new Steele rubbers. Quality aftermarket frame rubbers and seals were used for the winding windows; the outer seals were a real pain, each having to be cut, moulded, and then glued and screwed in place, but essential to get the right seal against the sliding glass. I also took the opportunity to clean up inside the doors, refurbish/repair the door lock mechanisms with new springs, and also the winder mechanisms, whilst I was 'in there'. Fitting the glass was tricky, requiring the glass and glass frame seal to be installed together, so there was a lot of swearing, and hand/car-cleaning afterwards to get the surplus black waterproof seal adhesive off !

Also, the front door quarter frames had to be fixed after the glass was installed; this included the refurbished drip-plates for above each hinge, which sit between the quarter light and door frames. Finally, a set of remade Quarterlight handles (John Ulrich again) on rechromed bases finished off the job nicely. I must say the Steele quarter rubber despite being quite a complex moulding were a good fit, just requiring trimming of the ends during installation; and to anyone who's ever tried to remove, replete, and/or repair the original castings, the 'Ulrich' replacement quarter handles were a lifesaver.

The only issue I had was with the remade glass; interestingly, each of the matching pairs (i.e. LH/RH panes for each window) were lightly different; my glass man was spot on with what he made to replicate the originals, but one of the rear windows glasses sticks in the new runners on winding - I think because there is a little too much gap between the vertical edges of the glass and the runners, allowing it to tilt in the runners, and so stick, when would up/down. The solution I think will be a little wider new piece of glass, but we'll see. It also makes me wonder if the glass was original, as all the flat panes (both sides and windscreen) were blue-tinted, with just the curved rear screen in clear glass. Maybe it was special order for a car built for export as mine was, or maybe this was done later in its life; one to ponder but that would explain the variation in shapes.

Reading this and looking at the photos doesn't really convey what actually took weeks of fiddling about on the detail of the job, which most people might not notice, but I do, I know the windows are good for a few more years at least, and the new seals will hopefully do a much better job on noise and water ingress.

On to the next task !
Lower quarter hinge -note split rubber letting in water
Damaged/redrilled original quarter lever - nasty !
New quarter rubber in new frame-perfect fit

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Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:02 am
Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:21 pm


Interior Trimming

Work continues apace on the car as I work thorough the myriad of fiddly bits to keep moving forwards on several fronts. Inside the car, after remaking boards to fill the floor cavities, and giving it a third coat of rustproof primer, I lined the floor; instead of carpet underlay I used a modern hard-floor underlay, made from rubberised foam with a reflective aluminium layer. Then I carefully cut the carpet (best quality Jaguar close-pile material - more expensive than the carpet in my house -don't tell my wife...) -in my case due to the width of the source material I had to use three runs, with joins across the body under the seat and in the floor crease in the front footwell; the pieces are being edge- trimmed then it will be time for fitting. I can't afford a full retrim, so all the original vinyl interior was cleaned; first with washing powder/water, then with white spirit, scrubbed into the grooves in the material, then a final wash off, and it looks pretty good. There is some minor marking/damage, which I will try and tidy up with repairs/new material - more on this later.

The big 'win' for the interior recently was finding a genuine original period Packard accessory rear footrest trim (thanks John). This is stainless steel, so after tapping out a few marks, and a careful soft wire brushing followed by polish and cleaning, it came up really well. It uses two clips to hold it in place; these were simply de-rusted and painted.

The final article fitted to the footrest looks really good; I can't wait go get it into place ! All I need now to complete my 'set' accessory-wise is an original radio and rear drop-down bumper guard - I've been really pleased to have found the rest despite being in the UK, but of course thats thanks in no small part to club members and suppliers -you know who you are: IOU.

More Soon.

Have a great day,

Remade floor boards
Floor underlay -pretty jazzy
Genuine Rear Footrest accessory
Rear Footrest Accessory - in place
Accessory Spring Clip
Accessory -end profile

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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by Adam » Thu Apr 16, 2015 4:22 am

Gorgeous work Howard.

"Do not underestimate the English cousin.....they are not as stupid as they look!" - Signor Altabani in The Italian Job.

Posts: 208
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:02 am
Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Sat May 02, 2015 1:34 am

Thanks Adam - hope our paths cross this year !

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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by dak955 » Sat May 02, 2015 3:49 am

Great work. Thanks for the update......

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Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Sat May 02, 2015 3:55 am

Steering Wheel Refurbishment

My car came with the 'Deluxe' version steering wheel, but unfortunately the plastic was very badly cracked and split. None of the few UK restorers would tackle its proper replacement, so I decided to put a full 'refurb' on hold until I can source a reliable restorer or another wheel. Nevertheless, I still need a steering wheel, so I decided to restore what I had as best I could just as a temporary solution.

To start with, I was careful to take photos during disassembly, first of the Horn ring assembly held on by three screws through the boss on the column, and then of the wheel itself, which when off left me with a small pawl and spring loose in the column (more on those later).

The horn assembly was stripped, and the horn ring and centre edge ring both rechromed. The centre plastic badge was pretty good, with just a little of the base colour paint flaking off the back, leaving 'clear' plastic to be seen from the front, so this was fixed by a very light coat of spray paint made to match the original applied over the old; once fitted, you can hardly tell there was any damage, and I still have the original patina.

The wheel plastic itself had degraded at each of the four joints linking the rime to the centre, and also the whole of the rim had split and cracked with big pieces missing. I gradually rebuilt the integrity of the plastic bit by bit, grinding old plastic away to make a groove with a rough surface to give good adhesion, which was then filled with araldite; when hardened this was carefully filed and sanded to shape. I repaired each of the four joints in the same way.

This took weeks, and gave the wheel back its structural integrity, but to be honest because the old plastic was so badly degraded there was no way I could get a good enough surface for paint that would then take normal use. My remedy was to cheat !

I painted just the centre boss and the four joints, and then wrapped the rim in a custom-made leather cover, which I hand-stitched around the rim. Its not original, but is a good tight fit to the rim, and functional for now, and the painted parts on show make it look more like a good original wheel with an aftermarket period cover on, as might have been common in the day.

At this point I would like to say that reassembly was merely a reverse of disassembly -but it wasn't !

My first issue was the loose boss and spring - thanks to the Forum (Howard 56), a photo from a similar car showed how this should be refitted, so that was solved.

My second issue was the Horn push assembly itself.

The plastic centre badge was easily refitted, held in place by the chrome ring that had tags that fit through slots in the horn push casting that just needed careful bending over.

The next piece was a small plastic boss moulding with a metal spring washer that provided a central pivot point for the horn to rock on; once fitted the first metal ring was centred on that. This was mounted by three screws that ran through three lipped plastic bushes into the ring, followed by a smaller second metal ring, the bushes providing insulation between the two metal rings; getting the orientation of the lipped side right is key to the horn push working to make/break contact.

Again the Forum was key to this (Howard56 again -thankyou sir) coming up with a parts diagram for a similar wheel showing the sequence and orientation of the parts. This showed I am missing two parts, specifically a big lipped washer that goes behind the wheel nut, and a large spring that fits between that washer and the one under the horn push assembly. I suspect that spring also acts as a contact to earth the horn to the car; as the photo shows, my car has had an extra wire added to serve this purpose, which will have to do until I can find the missing parts.

My car's rewire is not yet finished so I haven't been able to test the Horn yet, but the wheel looks much improved over when it first came out of the car, so fingers crossed for now, and on to the next job.

Have a great weekend,

Boss and spring refitted
Centre boss, spring and first metal ring in place
Plastic bushes with lips upwards
Horn Push assembly completed
First fit to the car

Dave Czirr
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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by Dave Czirr » Sat May 02, 2015 6:36 am

I enjoy your blog, keep up the nice work.

At some point if convenient how about some photos of how the clutch, transmission and gas pedal linkages were reworked for RHD?

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Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:02 am
Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Sat May 02, 2015 2:39 pm

Hi Dave;

No problem, I'll see what I can do to oblige. I do have to 'tinker' with that at some point as its pretty slack, sticks in gear occasionally, and needs a new clutch or clutch adjusting... Also I have a pair of NOS column selector forks to fit, together with a set of John Ulrich's linkage clips that supposedly help with loose link joints, so when I get to that, I'll take care to photograph & write up, no worries.

Have a great weekend, and my respect for running the Forum, which has been my 'one-stop shop' for getting the best advice and help you could wish for; a great feature for our club, and testament to all your hard work.

Best Regards,


Posts: 208
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:02 am
Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Sun May 03, 2015 1:15 pm

More Dash Plastic - the 'Waterfall'

One of the lovely new plastic bits provided by Jerry (Vintage Radio) was the central waterfall, which of course occupies pride of place in the dash centre. Jerry's new piece doesn't replicate the fiddly little metal tags that slot into the dash to hold the sides to the dash (not necessarily a bad thing as these are a pain to access and risk chipping the woodgrain when fitting and bending over), but does comes with the two top mounting threaded studs cast in place, but the rest has to be transferred over from the original piece. My original was a mess, but complete, so provided the essential 'original' non-plastic bits for refurbishment. The first of these were the two chrome strips that run down the front of the waterfall; these are held in place with short legs through holes in the plastic, and the lower ends tuck behind another trim strip. After rechrome, rather than risk breaking the legs by fitting friction washers (as original), I opted to fix them in place just with epoxy around the base of each leg -perfect.

The rear of the waterfall has a wire mesh to cover the slots in the waterfall and the radio speaker (if radio fitted). Again, my mesh was shot, so after a bit of hunting around of all things I found some aftermarket mesh used to support fibreglass repairs that was a good match for the mesh pattern, and in aluminium so wont rust. Cut carefully to fit, again I opted to epoxy this around its inner edge together with washers epoxy-ed onto the plastic lugs (see pic) -again a neat though fiddly job.

The bottom of the waterfall has a metal pressing that rivets to the plastic, and then fastens the bottom of the assembly to the dash with three more fixings. I 'wood-grained' the metal as per my original car, and then after much searching at autojumbles found some appropriate split rivets that just fit nicely; these were pushed though the metal and the plastic, then a washer added on the inside to protect the plastic before the legs of the rivets were each bent over, and the lot covered with a dab of epoxy to secure it in place.

The result, a rebuilt Waterfall that looks great and is ready to fit. The one problem I have is the radio hole for which I have a genuine blanking plate or the option of a genuine motorola radio head made for this specific car. My problem is that neither came with any fixings to hold them into the waterfall, so time for a bit more research to see how either were originally fitted, as I think I'm missing a few parts (as does my wife...). No hurry really as I've still to resolve my nonworking wiper motor/switch assembly, which I want installed and working together with the last of the dash wiring before the waterfall and glove box are finally fitted.

But more of that later !
Original Waterfall -grotty
Rear showing original fixings
IMG_1675.jpg (11.53 KiB) Viewed 6143 times
New Rear showing alternative fixings
Built assembly trial fitting - better than before!

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