UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

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Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:02 am
Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Sun Sep 13, 2015 8:59 am

Interior Carpet

With humble apologies for the 'gap' in my ongoing restoration blog (the usual domestic crises and other grief that life throws up are my only excuse), I will try and bring things up to date.

Having lined and under-felted the main cabin floor, and installed the new bulkhead cover (which is a very well remade part, but needed a fair bit of cutting to get it to fit my RHD car as they are, quite understandably, only made for LH), I moved on to the carpet itself. I decided to use a top quality red wilton to set off the ivory interior. Importing a carpet kit was out of the question due to shipping/customs charges, so I had to source the material in the UK, which I did from a Rolls-Royce/Jaguar supplier. The normal aftermarket carpet kits usually come in two pieces, a front and a rear section, which overlap under the front seat; this wasn't an option for me as the carpet I wanted only came in a width that was too narrow to fit the car lengthways, so I had to use three pieces running across the interior. I cut pieces for the main front and rear floors, overlapping them under the front seat as per the others I've seen. The front piece however I cut flush with the floor line where it meets the toe board/lower bulkhead, and then cut a third piece to cover the toe board, underlapping the Bulkhead mat and the floor carpet. After lots of fiddling I also managed to cut holes for pedals, hi-lo beam switch, battery box cover, etc., and then all the three pieces of carpet were edged in red binding. The rear carpet went in first, then the front, at which point the front seat brackets were bolted in to secure the two carpets and the join. Finally the toe board carpet was fitted with velcro on its back and the floor to assist it in staying put, and tucked neatly behind the bulkhead mat and the floor carpet.

The final touch was fitting the four aluminium tread plates which I had had remade through the club; they took ages, but are absolutely excellent, a spot-on replica; with new screws they just finish the carpet off perfectly.

I couldn't find a suitable heel pad for the drivers side carpet (I wanted deep red), but can always retro-fit that if I do subsequently find one. Also, I tried to order a set of the excellent 'Packard' emblem rubber mats made by the club; Max Merrett were very helpful, but sent me images to show the batch of 'Red' mats that had been made were faulty in that the red dye had seeped into the other colours, so I guess I will have to settle for black.

I'm now busy trial-fitting the front seat, which needs a bit of a retrim in parts, and a new hanging cord for the back; also the seat adjuster mechanism needs fettling... -this is the bit that takes a second on the TV car restoration shows : I've been at it for two weeks now !

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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Tue Sep 15, 2015 6:10 am


As part of my 'parts gathering' efforts, I've also been busy collecting, restoring and fitting a few of the original Packard Accessories for the car, which so far include :

Front/Rear Bumper end trims
Front Fender Centre Piece
Front Fender 3-bar Protector
'Goddess' Hood Ornament
Front Foglamps
Reversing Lamps
'Deluxe hood script emblems

Now as well as for functionality, I have fitted these to improve the external appearance of the car, which in my view they do when compared to the rather plain front/rear trim on the car when I bought it. One of the rear bumper end trims also covers up a poor weld repair to the rear bumper (that came with the car). I was interested to find that my car, which is a factory-built 'Deluxe' Touring sedan, had never had the 'deluxe' scripts fitted before. Also, I accept that the Fog and Reversing lights are actually for later model Packards, but so far I have not been able to track down genuine 1941 versions of either.

However, whilst I think these do improve my car, and the regular passers-by who know the car also seem to love them, I often go to car shows where I see some restored cars that I think have been 'over-accessorised', with a perfectly good car playing second fiddle to, and appearing more as a display platform for, the accessories rather than the other way round. My own car is a potential case in point; I have a pair of genuine NOS spot lamps (the type that fit through the windscreen pillars), complete with mounting kits for my 41 110, and even with rear-view mirrors on the reverse of each lamp. Now, I love these things, but to be honest so far I have refrained from fitting them simply because I fear they will be a 'step too far' in over-accessorising the external appearance. Am I right ? -ultimately I guess these things are a matter of choice, but it does pose the question about when is 'enough' with these things. Just food for thought in passing.

Have a great day,


PS. I'm still seeking a decent rear fender guard accessory -I have one but the parts are all heavily corroded, also seeking the genuine 41 rearview mirrors that replace the front bulkhead trim in front of the doors and a front licence plate carrier bracket. And 'yes', if I do track any of these down, they will be going straight on the car !
'As bought'
'With accessories' - front view
'With accessories' - rear view

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Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Tue Jul 12, 2016 3:56 pm

12 to 6-volt conversion

With humble apologies for the delay in my updating the blog (whilst I bought and restored a 1930's house), those of you who have been following my blog may remember my 'export' (to South Africa) RHD model during its lifetime had lots of original parts replaced with non-standard : I guess African Packard dealers were maybe a bit thin on the ground even in 1941...

One of the non-standard modifications was conversion to a 12-volt negative earth system using 'Lucas' british components. Further 'modifications' included all-wrecked dash instruments (the car came with a speedo surround carved out of balsa wood instead of plastic, and a pedal cycle speedometer...) and a home-made wiring harness. Now in fairness the car ran very well when I bought it, so my first plan was to renew all the dash instruments, fit a new wiring harness, and retain the 12-volt system but feed the 6-volt accessories through a voltage reducer.

All was proceeding nicely until I started the rewire using the (very nice) new harness, and being no 'sparky', realised I was not comfortable that I could safely separate and rework the 6-volt power feeds I needed via the reducer. No way was I going to risk damaging my beautiful rebuilt dash with all new instruments, so 'plan b' became order of the day, namely a conversion back to original 6-volt system (Yep Dave - you told me so ! :0)

I sourced new period Battery and 6-volt coil in the UK, no problem, which should suffice until I find the correct period genuine US item. Much hunting through the club and US-eBay duly located original 'Autolite' generator and regulator units, and after a 6-week wait and a second mortgage to pay for their shipping and customs charges, I was ready to proceed.

I had taken good advice from the harness builder when I ordered my new harness and opted for a 6-volt harness (thicker wire), so that was fine.

The Regulator was an easy swop, needing only a few changed wire end connectors and extended wires to reach the terminals.

The Generator was a bit more challenging, in that I couldn't source an original bracket, and my old (Lucas) bracket was too short. The solution was to fabricate a new bracket from bar steel, which took a while as I had to align the Generator Pulley correctly with the Engine and Fan Pulleys, but after a bit of careful remeasuring with a straight-edge across the pulleys and some fabrication, it was job done, it mounted perfectly and wired straight in.

An old NOS fan belt originally made for a Ferguson tractor (a lucky find at an auto jumble) was a perfect fit both in terms of profile and in diameter, once I'd released the front engine mounts and jacked the nose up to widen the crossmember-engine pulley gap and allow the belt into position (note to self - I need to fit new font engine mount rubbers - thank Dave for good advice on this)

So; all I have to do now is swop out the 12-volt bulbs for 6-volt, check polarity of the Generator and Regulator, source a period 6-volt Horn Relay, and it should be near 'test fire-up' time. Fingers crossed !
Aligning the Generator
Home-made bracket
Generator in, wired, and new fan belt

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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by flackmaster » Wed Jul 13, 2016 2:06 pm

Howard - the 6V horn relay is readily available via Ebait or other commercial means, the standard part number is HR 106.

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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Thu Jul 14, 2016 3:45 am

Thankyou sir ! Relay now ordered.

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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Thu Jul 14, 2016 4:08 am

Glove Box and Clock Wiring

As part of the renovation I was very lucky to find a genuine new old stock original clock, which after restoration and painting/woodgraining of the dash was duly installed. Similarly, the new remade wiring harness provided a good wiring feed to the glovebox area, including the clock bulb socket and white earth wire, together with a power feed for the clock and glove box light (see picture 1).

The wiring kit also provided black & red wires linked through a single terminal, and a hand-drawn diagram for adapting this to utilise the original clock fuse assembly and glovebox light mercury switch assembly. Unfortunately these parts were missing from my car...

Once again one of my club friends came to the rescue and saved the day for me (yet again) by supplying an original used fuse and switch assembly - again this shows the real value of being a club member and the importance of helping each other in our 'custodianship' of these beautiful automobiles -top stuff.

The original parts were in good order, the plating still intact, and the mercury switch still working (see picture 2), so the task before me was to integrate these original parts into the new wiring.

I started by stripping and cleaning the original parts; their wires, insulation and springs were not unsurprisingly corroded, but they did offer a good pattern to replicate. I had to hand some new light socket fittings and new fuse holders, so these were cannibalised to provide the correct springs and insulating washers, whose diameter I ground down to size to enable them to fit inside the smaller metal fittings. The only parts I did not have new were the actual wire-end terminals, so the originals were carefully de-soldered from the old wires, cleaned, and then re-soldered to the new wiring parts. (see picture 3). The ends of the wires were carefully soldiered and sanded to create a clean, curved profile -fiddly but essential for making a good contact and just as original.

Once completed, the components were trial-fitted; thats when I found the glove box light wire supplied in the kit was too short to allow the mercury switch assembly to reach the bulb holder -a small issue, quickly fixed by extending the wire.

Final reassembly was then easy. For me it looks good, (see pictures 4&5) and the original parts are the real icing on the cake. -And yes, I can remove the (very useful) wire numbering aids once I'm sure everything is wired properly.

Only a small bit of detail in the overall restoration, I know, but its one thats very visible every time the Glove Box is opened: detail matters, and I'm delighted with it.
Picture 1 : Glove box wiring
Picture 2 : 'Unobtanium ' original parts - thankyou!
Picture 3 : Rewire- Combining the best of new and old
Picture 4 : New Clock Wiring under the cover
Picture 5 : Assembly Completed

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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Mon Aug 01, 2016 2:38 am

Its Alive !

For the first time since I started the restoration & rewire, I have finally been able to get my car to run, which in my case is kind of like prehistoric man successfully conducting brain surgery with a not-very-sharp rock...

Before too much back-patting ensues, I must admit to having had to engage the help of a qualified mechanic to get to this stage, although the reason was as much to do with time than just skill -my stepson gets married in just three weeks and his fiancé has had her heart set on the Packard being the bridal car for the past two years, so much so she has a period dress, hairdo, jewellery, music, etc. all lined up -you get the picture. So: failure in getting the car ready is NOT an option, even if they have to travel in the car on the back of a trailer...

To even get to this stage has involved way more than I expected to be honest, not least because the conversion was both from 12 to 6-volt, and also negative to positive earth, so I thought I'd add a few 'notes on my experience' for anyone contemplating the same.

1) My 6v system is (in comparison to 12v) TRICKY -it required much more quality and care in both connections and components than 12-volt to work. For example, my old 12v system worked fine throughout the car, but I had to renew/replace all my battery and earth connections to the frame and engine with proper heavy duty items before I could get an adequate circuit in 6v -form; I also had to wire various parts like the dash and lights with additional earth connections to get an adequate circuit where again they had worked fine before on 12v. Whilst I was at it, I installed a non-standard battery isolator switch in the engine bay -visibly not original I know, but far more accessible than the under-seat battery, and a good safety feature.

2) My Autolite starter motor was the original, but had been converted to '12v' mode by adding a 4-wire solenoid from what I eventually was told to have been a standard item on a later Packard. This was easily fixed by swopping the Solenoid for an original 6v 3-wire NOS item. However, whilst the motor cranked normally with plugs out, it cranks only slowly with plugs in. It starts OK, but just cranks very slowly compared to when in '12v mode'. I haven't figured this one out yet (hence my 'Forum' query on cranking amperage) Any ideas anyone ?

3) Working on the dash wiring is very hard with the dash installed -in hindsight although I did wire it before fitting, I could and should have pre-tested connections, switches, bulbs etc. before it went in. Its also an area very open to electrical faults and shorts simply because theres so much crammed in close together. Example-my original ignition switch. This switches a live feed from the ammeter and sends it to the rest of the car including the starter button, and also to the ignition coil via a re-inforced metal-sheathed cable that runs through the bulkhead. Partway through the work I found the main body of the switch and thus the insulating sleeve was live, even with the switch in the off position. Eventually I found the switch internals were faulty (so need a new switch), but had I not found this, the potential for burning out a circuit under the dash, or even a fire, was serious.

4) 'Fork' -style wiring terminals are no good; my very nice remade harness included fork terminals to the starter button - when I fitted the switch back into the dash one came loose so the car wouldn't start - tracing that fault took hours. Solution -replace the 'fork' terminals with loop-style terminals so they cant come off the screw/pin.

5) Understanding the function of the 4-position Internal lighting switch and the main Lights switch was hard. The main lights operate regardless of the ignition being off, but whilst the parking lights operate with the main light switch at position 1, they turn off with the switch at position 2 (which activated the headlights). I want the front parking lights to work as sidelights, so will need to 'add' a wire to them from the headlights feed.

6) Understanding the function of the 4-position Internal lighting switch was also hard. I get what each stage should do, but still haven't managed to satisfy myself they all work as they should -what a complicated switch !

7) Be sure you know what other people have done to your car before you. I couldn't find the wire from the gas tank sender (and I still cant !), but whilst laid under the car for an hour trying to find this, I did find a different nondescript wire of unknown function. Following this I found a 12-volt aftermarket petrol pump tucked up between the frame and the tank - surprise ! Whilst this wasn't a bad thing for the car (supplementing the standard pump), I did need to swop it for a 6-volt item, and also rewire to suit positive earth. Also whilst I've wired it to operate with the ignition, it seems to run all the time so I may have to swop it for a unit that has a pressure cut-off or risk over-fuelling the carburettor.

8) Indicators are fun -not. I have a NOS period 'Signal Stat' switch, and wanted to fit 'invisible' indicators to the car. To achieve this, at the front I modified the Parking Light sockets to take dual-filament bulbs, the idea being these (21W) will flash brighter than the (5w) parking lights. At the rear, as per an earlier blog entry I initially fitted amber LED's inside the original tail light housings. However, conversion to 6v rendered these unusable, and my 'expert' assistant warned that LED's don't provide the right ohms for a flasher relay anyway, so it was back to the drawing board on this one. The original lights are very shallow, probably explaining why the standard bulb holders are so slanted. Adapting the existing socket like the front was not an option as each was already a twin-filament fitting (stop and tail lights). In the end I fitted an additional aftermarket 15mm bulb holder into each light below the main bulb holder; these crimped in place but again needed separate earth wires. Using a small-headed bulb meant they cleared the light lens nicely, but this option did require drilling both the light unit backplate casting, the car body, and the light mounting bracket to allow the base of the bulb holder to project into the car. One of the same fittings also renewed my licence plate light socket very nicely, but again I had to earth the boot lid directly to the body.

9) On the subject of 'overcomplicated', I have to say that the original Stewart Warner wiper system sucks. My car came with a 12-volt aftermarket wiper motor that worked fine. After much searching and help from Club friends, I was delighted to source an original assembly. I had the motor rewound at great expense, only to find it had in fact been rewound it to 12volt (because 'all cars are 12-volt' aren't they...). Luckily a second unit found on eBay donated a good working 6-volt motor. I got that motor working fine after rewiring it, but the Stewart-Warner 'clutch' mechanism that connects the motor to the wipers is like a swiss watch; after a week of repeated stripping/reassembly in accordance with the original service manual, it still didn't work properly. So now after four months of work and despite a spend of over $1000 in search of originality, the 12-volt motor is back in the car as a temporary fix; on 6v it runs slowly of course, so I'm planning to source a 6-12 volt voltage booster in the hope I can 'up' its power delivery that way and thus its speed; and parking the wipers is currently a case of turning the switch iff when they're in the right position.... -I will have to revisit this issue in the future.. Oh, and beware aftermarket wiper switches -the metal dash has a pressed recess for the switch that is actually very small -too small for most switches that have a larger diameter back to them.

So; now all I have to do is sort out the indicator relay/wiring, footwell lights (that don't appear on my wiring diagram), find and sort the dome light feed, sort out the feeds/switching for the fog lights, heater, and windscreen washer motor, fit the rebuilt radio (when it comes).

- And get the car running properly.

- And hope that the slipping clutch I identified when I bought it is just an adjustment issue.

- And the rest....!
Battery Isolator Switch
Extra bulb socket in rear lamp housing -rear view
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Extra socket -side view
IMG_6704.jpg (7.69 KiB) Viewed 5817 times
Who put that there !
Last edited by analyse999 on Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Posts: 208
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Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:45 pm

Licence Plates

The UK legal standard licence plate for 1941 is a black plate with silver text, both larger that the US standard ; out of respect for the car, I wanted original US plates.

I found a manufacturer in Germany that makes reproduction black/white US plates and offers extra text above and below the registration number -a perfect way to help people know what my car is. The plates were duty ordered and are very nice - construction-wise they are pressed from aluminium so are softer than standard US metal plates, and have a ninety-degree folded edge 'lip'.

The second part of my 'wants' 'were period accessory licence plate surrounds. An eBay vendor had genuine nos that never sold despite several listings but still wanted a full $250 the pair (plus shipping, customs etc.). Enter the club 'Cormorant' magazine, and Dwight Heinmuller, who supplied two stainless steel surround kits for less than half that price. They quickly arrived from the US and are a real quality product. They use concealed clips that were tricky to fit due to the folded edge of the plates and the soft plate metal, but once on they really look the part: thanks Dwight !

The final stage was fitting to the car. The rear went on easily, but the front was a bit tricky; the original plate mount positions the plate over the front bumper, but because my car now has genuine accessory front bumper bars and bumper end plates, together they reduce the space where the plate normally sits. Luckily the length of the slots on the plate mount meant I was able to position the plate right over towards the centre of the car without modifying anything -its not perfect, but still pretty good in my view.

The only issue now is using the car on UK roads; do I risk these plates, or perhaps clip genuine UK plates over the top of these just whilst driving... : I know caution is the better part of valour, but the originals just look so right maybe its worth the risk of a ticket -watch this space !
Rear plate
IMG_6684.jpg (9.2 KiB) Viewed 5817 times
Front plate displaced in mount
IMG_6683.jpg (10.79 KiB) Viewed 5817 times
Front plate, front view
Front bracket and accessories either side
IMG_6236.jpg (10.54 KiB) Viewed 5817 times

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Location: Yorkshire, England (UK)

Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Wed Aug 03, 2016 1:28 pm

Fuel Fun

Having got the beast to think about running, the next problem occurred, which was poor fuel delivery to the carburettor. The carb float bowl wasn't filling properly; the in-line fuel filter showed air bubbles coming through the system, which was traced back to a cracked and leaking rubber pipe from the tank to the main metal petrol pipe. The Gas Tank Sender and fuel connection are all on top of the tank, sandwiched between it and the underside of the boot floor, so the only solution was to take the tank out of the car. This also revealed that the sender unit had a 'home made' gasket that was long perished, another potential leak point. The sender was tested and worked OK, but the pickup pipe had an open end so any old crud could be picked up from the tank.

The tank was cleaned out internally, and both it and the underside of the boot floor de-rusted and undersealed to protect them for the future. A new Neoprene seal was fabricated to fit the sender, and fitted with sealant to both faces and the 5 bolts. In a bid to improve access for the future, I cut a small aperture in the boot floor over where the tank sender sits. I will fabricate a plate cover for this, and whilst I appreciate its non-standard, it solves the access problem once and for all, and my car is being built to be used.

The tank was then re-installed.

To deal with the tank pick-up issue, I installed a small inline fuel filter between the tank and the (extra electric) fuel pump, and of course renewed all the pipework with stainless steel clamps. Once filled with fuel, after bleeding the system, it fed fuel to the carburettor float bowl perfectly. The float was reset and then the engine ran properly - result !

At present it does not want to restart when warm, but a shot of 'easy start' solves that. It also runs a bit 'lumpy', but that might be partly down to worn points (pending another package arriving from Max Merritt).

This progress allowed us to take the car for a quick 'round the block' spin.

The good news was that it didn't stall, the brakes worked OK (after a new master cylinder was installed), and the clutch did 'bite', although late on the pedal travel; hopefully that can be adjusted.

The bad news was that the clutch pedal was catching on the gear selector rods (remember this is a RHD car so very 'busy' with lots of bits on that side of the engine). Rotating one rod through 180 degrees helped, but a little more tweaking will be necessary to get full clearance. Also whilst all gears could be selected, the mechanism was very loose, some gears difficult to engage, and it keeps jumping out of first, so some time resetting the mechanism will be needed I think ! A related problem ironically could be the need to fit new engine mounts, certainly needed at the front, as clearly this will affect the position of the engine in the frame. If anyone has done this, I'd appreciate any advice, as its all new to me; also would it be best to replace all mounts (front and rear) whilst I'm at it ??

However, whilst the clutch/gear selection problem was there, the biggest issue was massive overheating. Despite the car having new thermostat, hoses, water pump, and coolant, I'm not convinced the 'stat' is opening properly, and although the radiator looks in good condition and was warm across its full surface, I think the radiator might have to come out for a proper flush as the coolant was getting a bit rust-coloured, although of course this could also be from the block. Again, if anyone has advice on how to get the radiator out, I'd be most grateful. And at least it proved my NOS dash temperature gauge worked perfectly -all the way to the top...

So; one step forward. two back, but we're getting there -and the look on my neighbours faces when the car lumbered round the streets for the first time ever like Titanic running towards the icebergs was a mixture of total shock and open-mouthed amazement - priceless !
Tank Sender Unit
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Tidy Boot Underfloor and new access hole
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Spaghetti junction -extra pump and tank-side filter
IMG_6759.jpg (11.63 KiB) Viewed 5802 times

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Re: UK - Based 1941 110 Touring Sedan Deluxe RHD

Post by analyse999 » Tue Aug 16, 2016 1:10 am

Running at last

With apologies for no updates for the last few days, I've been working 12-hour days on the car to make the most of my North American mechanic who flies to Canada this wednesday, and long hours has meant lots of progress, as follows.

Firstly, as per my other 'HELP' postings, the cooling problem was finally traced to my home-made water pump gasket, into which which i'd forgotten to cut out the water distribution tube outlet - a schoolboy error which immediately give me water circulation and sensible temperatures. Before putting the front cowl back, I decided to take out the radiator one more time in order to replace my 'home made' engine mount rubbers with the proper items, which went on easily, and have really improved both the 'stance' of the engine and its vibration - happy times. Then as the saying goes 'assembly wast the reverse of disassembly; radiator, fan, cowl, grille and hood went on without any major issues, I had a whole and running (-ish) car again, and could start moving forwards.

A key issue I was finding with having converted back to 6-volt was that the car only cranked very slowly, and was a swine to start, always requiring lots of 'easy start' down the carb. No doubt this in part was down to no knowing the correct cranking amperage for the car, because I'd replaced all the battery cables with new heavy duty items, but with my coins wedding this coming weekend clearly this was no good for 'reliability'. Another issue was the wiper motor - I had (so far) been unable to get my genuine item working properly, so had restored the non-standard 12v item the car came with, but of course this rain at half speed on 6v, and I couldn't get a 'voltage booster anywhere that worked on positive earth. Finally, my genuine radio was being rebuilt and to go 'positive earth' in the configuration I had chosen would necessitate isolating the whole unit from grounding under the dash.

So: a hard but necessary 'executive decision' was taken to restore the cars electrics bad to non-standard 12 volt negative earth. This was difficult for me as I want originality and have spent a small fortune collecting and importing the original parts, but with time pressing it was the best solution for the short term. So; a frantic 24-hours ensued, swopping out the necessary parts and bulbs etc. When dine, the reward however when was immediate -the car starts first time, does not need easy start, the wiper works properly, the radio installation was relatively easy, I dont need voltage boosters, and nothing else has been negatively affected (except the gas tank sender, which I've disconnected through the very handy access hole in my boot floor until I sort a resistor for it.

Although frustrating to me, this swop has solved all my short-term problems at least and by giving me a reliable starter/runner allows me to focus on the (many) other issues with the car. I have carefully packed all my original 6-volt parts as a 'future challenge, and at least I have them all to hand now for when I get to that.

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