1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

If you're starting a project, large or small, please share your progress with us in pictures and words.
User avatar
theastronaut
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:04 am
Location: Anderson SC

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by theastronaut » Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:25 pm

Started the fold using the makeshift tipping die. Had to alternate between stretching the flange and making passes in the bead roller. Once the edge was bent about 45* I finished folding it over with a hammer/dolly.

Image

Image


Finished piece.

Image

User avatar
theastronaut
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:04 am
Location: Anderson SC

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by theastronaut » Thu Apr 21, 2016 12:00 pm

I started the right section of the trunk floor by laying out the bead pattern and rolling them. Not a fun piece to make; all of the beads in a tight area and at different angles made for some interesting distortion. Pre-stretching helped a ton but I still had some straightening to do after each bead.

Image


Before rolling the beads I "tuned up" the edges of the dies. The sharp outer edges would sometimes leave a slight bend beside the bead. I made a mandrel out of 3/4" OD tubing with a hex nut JB welded inside and a tack weld to set the depth of the die on the mandrel. This let me chuck the male die in the lathe and slightly rounded off the outer edges.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

User avatar
theastronaut
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:04 am
Location: Anderson SC

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by theastronaut » Thu Apr 21, 2016 12:01 pm

With the beads done I laid out where the bends for the "ramp" would be.

Image

Image



I made a fork to form tucks that will allow me to shrink deep into the panel.

Image



And started forming tucks and hammering them back flat. I made a few passes then started working out towards the edge making shorter tucks to curl the top edge inward more.

Image

Image


Flattening the tucks. You can see how much shrinking is happening, the lower part is flat while the upper part is still holding the shape of the tuck.

Image


Image


Bowl shape starting to form after one pass of full depth tucks.

Image


This would have worked, but I didn't shrink enough at the inner part of the bowl shape, and at the point I figured that out it was too late to get the tuck fork back in that deep. So I cut it out and will make a separate bowl shape to weld in. Looking back, it would have been easier to do this from the start, but it was a good learning experience, and now I have a tuck fork for future use. I didn't get any pictures of the bowl shape before I cut it out. It looked good but the shape didn't quite match.

The ramp was formed by stretching at the base of the transition, then bending on the lines over a piece of tubing.

Image


Since the floor has a ton of straight beads I made a depth stop/guide for the bead roller. I also clamped a piece of flat bar to the guide to keep the edge flat. The dies were wanting to flare the edge upward since they were very close to the edge, the flat bar prevented the edge from raising up.

Image

User avatar
theastronaut
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:04 am
Location: Anderson SC

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by theastronaut » Tue May 03, 2016 6:00 am

Started making a new corner for the right hand trunk panel.

Image

Image


Trimmed the panel to size and turned the edges 90* to create a flange.

Image


This was and interesting spot to make...

Image


To start the layout of the center section I stretched a piece of tape across the floor. I marked off a section 26" wide on the floor pan, and made matching marks on the tape. With the tape pulled off, I measured the marks on the tape- 26 and 7/8". There are 7 beads, so each bead is drawing in enough metal from the sides to make the panel "shorter" by 1/8" each. If I were to lay out the bead pattern on the new metal without taking this into account the panel would end up too short, and the beads would be too close together.

Image

Image


Bead pattern laid out with an extra 1/8" between the beads compared to the paper pattern I made earlier.

Image


First bead in the center trunk pan. To end the bead cleanly, I used a air chisel tip with the end slightly rounded over to sharpen up the shape.

Image

Image


On the top side, I ran over the end of the bead with a surface conditioning disc on the 3" grinder, then finished with a scuff pad. There's really no need to do this step other than it looks good while its in bare metal, so I won't do it on the rest of them. Just showing what's possible if you wanted to go the extra step. Some Packards had trunks that were "flocked" and that process would hide details like this.

Image


Test fitting the right side trunk pan.

Image

User avatar
theastronaut
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:04 am
Location: Anderson SC

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by theastronaut » Wed Aug 03, 2016 10:20 am

Been catching up on a few other projects around the shop but I'm back on the Packard now. We've been finishing up our new paint room, the owner of the '55 International was in town a few weeks ago so he brought it back to have seatbelts installed, plus we started back on the Model T firetruck project.

I've cut out 90% of the bracing, its no longer needed now that it can hold itself together again. I did make bolt-in braces that mount in the door jambs since the body will have to come back off the frame later on.

I also finished the lead work on the upper quarter panels. Got it in epoxy and today I'm skimming it with filler to smooth the file marks and get the shape 100%. I'll get the other side finished after lunch and shoot more epoxy to seal it up.

Image

Image


This isn't going to be a "no bondo" restoration... but that's not a bad thing. Filler gets a bad reputation because it's been badly abused over the years, like some of the previous repairs on this car. Modern fillers are very stable, and I make sure that the metal is as straight as possible before I apply filler. It typically spreads on about 1/16" thick and 80-90% of it is sanded off. You can see how thin it is on this spot- the red epoxy is visible in spots. I feel more comfortable using a product that was meant to be used as a filler to get the body 100% straight than using repeated coats of high build primer to do the same thing. High build primers have solvents that have to evaporate out which can cause shrinkage if it's piled on too thick... body filler doesn't have that problem.
Image


I finished making the driver side trunk pan and made corners for both the left and right sides.

Image

User avatar
Tinman_70
Posts: 772
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 8:17 am
Location: Tampa Bay, Florida

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by Tinman_70 » Fri Aug 05, 2016 11:14 am

Good to see you back on the roadster. Have you figured out what you are going to do to repair the doors?

Joe
Dare to be Different - Buy and Build Packards!
Member:
Packard Automobile Classics
packardclub.org
packardinfo.com
Series 22/23 Packard Group on Facebook

DrMorbius
Posts: 138
Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2016 7:25 am
Location: Long Island, NY

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by DrMorbius » Tue Aug 16, 2016 7:57 am

Absolutely beautiful metalworking skills you have there. Your Packard will come out even better than new, I'm sure!

b4z
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 10:06 am

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by b4z » Sun Aug 28, 2016 5:24 pm

This is just amazing! Im worn out looking at this thread.

User avatar
theastronaut
Posts: 93
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:04 am
Location: Anderson SC

Re: 1940 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration

Post by theastronaut » Wed Jan 10, 2018 11:01 am

I've had a lot of PM's here and on other forums about the pics from Photobucket not showing up. Unfortunately Photobucket has increased their price to $400/year to host pictures on forums, instead of the 2.99/month package I had been using. I do have the full set of pictures on our business' facebook page and you don't have to be logged in or have an account.

They can be seen here:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 5824a6ae1e


Also, if you use Google Chrome internet browser you can download a couple of extensions that will make photobucket pictures work again automatically. This is the easiest and best fix for now and it will work automatically anywhere pictures from photobucket are posted. I've read that there are other extinsions for other browsers if you're not using Chrome, so those would be worth looking into as well.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/deta ... fnflicjjgj

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/deta ... apbifiaedg

Post Reply