2365 club sedan

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Howard56
Posts: 1290
Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2012 11:35 am

Re: 2365 club sedan

Post by Howard56 » Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:00 pm

fast-dog wrote:
Tue Jan 07, 2020 9:01 am
One night I walked past the car after turning off the shop lights and had to back up because the instrument dials were lumin... not sure of the correct word or spelling but they were glowing, I found that neat(I liked it).
I am going to go work on the brakes, late start today my wife's family celebrates Christmas today so Merry Christmas to all.
Jay
That is what Packard called their "Flite-Glo" instruments used in the 48-50 models only. White appearing but luminescent paint on the numerals, markings and and hands is energized by UV light. The bulbs in the instrument cluster have UV filters over them and normally when lights are on at night the dash will be an overall very dim purple with the instrument's painted areas only glowing in bright green. If you did not have the dash lights on then perhaps your fluorescent lights or the sun was putting out enough UV to energize the paint. When the paint gets tired or flakes off then the instruments become very dim or gaps appear -- sometimes to the point they can barely be seen at night. When that happens some have tried to repaint with modern luminescent paint which is quite a time consuming and painstaking project. Others have reverted to taking the filters off the bulbs so the bare bulbs will shine thru and instrument panel will have the typical yellow incandescent glow like was in all the other years.

fast-dog
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:33 pm
Location: Jim Thorpe, PA

Re: 2365 club sedan

Post by fast-dog » Thu Jan 09, 2020 8:15 am

Just received two seals from Kanter Bros. I haven't measured them but I think they will work, although they look to be one-half inch the sealing surface will be further back on the spindle shoulder away from the bearing.
I spoke to the person who builds transmissions and rear gears for competition about gear lube for the transmission and rear and he said to use any gear lube but nothing synthetic, he also said on a transmission of that vintage he would use the heaviest available.
It is going to warm here the next few days I need to go to our large and hard to heat shop to repair the water outlet (thermostat housing) so we'll take advantage of this weather.
Thanks have a great day, Hope to have the front drums on by quitting time.
Jay

fast-dog
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:33 pm
Location: Jim Thorpe, PA

Re: 2365 club sedan

Post by fast-dog » Sun Jan 12, 2020 4:54 pm

Hello, drove the Packard about 2 miles today. Adjusted the brakes and hooked up the shift linkage Friday, yesterday made a flange from 3/16" plate and brazed it to the thermostat housing and put it all together. Today the fluids were at the same levels as last night, hooked up the battery and put the hood on. I was excited to let out the clutch pedal and drive it out of the garage. We are able to go about a one mile circle on roads/streets that are very lightly traveled and other than the carburetor acting up and 70 year old bias plys with about 45 LBS. of air in them in drove OK. The shift lever is the smoothest I have experienced.
Just ordered a carburetor kit as it needs one and after one of a few backfires the muffler gave out.
The radio delete plate is loose and fooling around with it I felt around on top of the glove box and can feel a paper there, might this be the build sheet, it is loose around the edges but I don't want to tear it.
The dash and glove box are in very nice condition and the glove box light works.
I need to replace the bulb in the tail light (23rd series) does the socket come out from inside the trunk or does the tail light housing have to be removed from the body, I was looking and hoping it would come out from the trunk but I didn't see how.
Thank you,
Jay

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Tinman_70
Posts: 841
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 8:17 am
Location: Tampa Bay, Florida

Re: 2365 club sedan

Post by Tinman_70 » Mon Jan 13, 2020 5:16 am

Jay,

The taillight bulbs and socket pop out from inside the trunk. Nice progress on your project!

Joe
Dare to be Different - Buy and Build Packards!
Member:
Packard Automobile Classics
packardclub.org
packardinfo.com
Series 22/23 Packard Group on Facebook

fast-dog
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:33 pm
Location: Jim Thorpe, PA

Re: 2365 club sedan

Post by fast-dog » Mon Jan 13, 2020 8:28 am

Thank you Joe, I need to look closer.
What I have done with our car pales to what you have accomplished and I do not recommend any of my methods.
When we got the car I was told it was driven about one year ago. I got it running with a cap and rotor from rock-auto and ran it a few minutes to determine it did run.
Then drained the engine, transmission and rear and filled them with kerosene. The engine for two weeks, when that was drained I put a bottle of marvel mystery oil and about 3 Qts. of kerosene and cranked the engine with the oil pressure sending switch removed till clean fluid was seen. Then drained that, whenever any drain plugs were out I would fish around with a piece of wire to see what goop could be removed.
In the time I did all this the pan could have been removed and cleaned properly. I am doing this in our son's garage and don't have the luxury of my shop and trying not to overwhelm our daughter-in-law, I had the neighborhood in a fog of Marvel Mystery oil smoke yesterday and she was surprised the town's fire alarms were not heard.
Then filled the engine with fresh oil some Lucas and a bottle of Marvel Mystery oil. I only used a total of two bottles of Marvel and one-half bottle of Lucas.
The trans and rear were filled by putting "pipe to hose" fittings into their drain holes then clamping 5/8" heater hose to the fittings and running the hoses up the side of the car, fastened the rear hose to the door handle and the hose to the trans was fastened to the hood mechanism then using a funnel they were filled with kero until it came out of the fill holes.
Now with fresh oil in the engine kero in the trans and rear and the car on jack-stands I ran it for short periods (still has the leaky water outlet) for just over two miles according to the odometer.
While everything was soaking the brakes were being addressed, first I got the 1.75 X 12 brakes from amazon, to save money, not only were the shoes too thick for the e-brake connecting link but the adjusters also, the wheel cylinder push rods fit nicely so I ground the shoes thinner and put it together to find that with everything contracted as much as possible the drum would not go over the lining, I would have had to take at least 1/16" off of each shoe, Then i had one front wheel seal from napa which put into the drum and installed put the rubber sealing surface too close to the inner bearing pinching the rubber seal, That's when I went home and ordered seals and brake lining from Kanter and received the wrong seals.
Received the correct seals from Kanter and a set of riveted lining and finally had the brakes together.
Now had the messy job of draining and filling the rear and trans, with the drain plugs out I can get my pinky in there and felt or saw absolutely nothing in the way of metal or gold dust was evident in the trans or rear.
For the shift linkage I had a bronze bushing that I machined to fit the top of the shift rod pin on the bottom I had two 5/16" wave washers, with all fluids refilled I adjusted the brakes and set the car on the ground Friday night.
Saturday made a flange to match the bottom of the thermostat housing and brazed it around the inside circumference, then precision ground the new mating surface on the 6"belt sander (one of my favorite tools). I got my gates hose in the mail fri. and put the cooling system together Sat. evening filled it and went home.
Sunday, walked the dog, went to church, prayed to the Saints of Packard. I checked the fluids to make sure they didn't combine somehow, hooked up the battery and put the hood on.
Drove the car two miles today and discovered nothing unexpected, today it is going back up on jackstands and the UL approved Midas muffler is being removed the carb rebuild kit should be on it's way.
My goal is to return the car to the road while keeping it's acquired history such as the mysterious paint job, The front seat cushions need to be reupholstered and I may have this done professionally.
Thanks all for your time,
Jay

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