1946 super Clipper overdrive does not engage

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Olivierdejong
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1946 super Clipper overdrive does not engage

Post by Olivierdejong » Tue Jul 05, 2022 2:31 pm

Hello.

Thank you for,this,great explanation, although it’s a bit technical for my understanding of electricity.
I was about to go and meet friends the other day, to match your explanations and my car with someone understanding it better, but then suddenly I turned a little bit the big knob of the OD and, miracle, the green light appeared and the OD engaged fluently. And disengaged when needed, and kick down works as well as the freewheel.
So if this is just a miscontact, the friend could solve it. This is the electrical part of the OD.

What I still don’t understand is the mechanical part of it. The OD knob allows only to disengage the OD mechanically, with the car on stop of course, but not to engage it. Any idea? So far I crawl under the car to engage manually the lever.

Best regards.
Olivier
Last edited by Olivierdejong on Thu Aug 04, 2022 3:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Olivier Dejong
+32 477 308 669
Packardclubbelgium@yahoo.com

Howard56
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2012 11:35 am

Re: 1946 super Clipper overdrive does not engage

Post by Howard56 » Wed Jul 06, 2022 7:45 am

Question would be if the issue is mechanical or electrical. Not sure I follow why you are going under the car to engage the lever. Is the OD cable missing or broken? If the cable is OK, how about the adjustment. With the knob pulled out and OD is locked out, the lever end should be pulled forward and be just a tiny bit away from the front stop or roughly about a 5:00 o'clock position. With the knob pushed in to engage the OD, the lever end should go rearward to around the 8:00 o'clock position.

The green light coming on means the relay is able to pull in but that does not mean the solenoid is pulling in too. Am not sure from your description if the green light stays on or does go out but still no OD. If it stays on I suspect the solenoid is not working. If it goes out then the solenoid is probably working and the problem is mechanical inside the OD unit.

To test the solenoid, if the car is sitting and you ground terminal 5 of the relay you should hear the solenoid give at least a good click. The relay will also come in with a lighter click so you need to listen carefully for sounds coming from under the car. If the OD gears are in a position to have the pawl move into position, the solenoid will give a good heavy clunk sound rather than the click sound. Is this happening?

If you are uncertain, best to double check the solenoid by going under the car and measuring the voltage at the solenoid terminals 3 and 4 while the relay terminal 5 is grounded. You can ground terminal 5 from under the car by grounding the OD wire on the governor. Since you can see the green light we will assume the other switches in the circuit are OK so grounding the governor should bring in the relay if the OD knob is also pushed in so the lockout switch is on. With the relay energized, you must have 6v at both terminals 3 and 4 on the solenoid for it to pull in. If there is voltage but no sounds, there is a set of contacts inside the solenoid that may be the issue or the pull in coil may be burned out.

Here is the OD wiring diagram. The reverse lockout switch as shown in the diagram was suggested to be installed on 21st series cars per a service article and may or may not be present on your car. A photo of the relay and solenoid is also included to help identify terminals. Solenoid terminals 3 and 4 are roughly at top and bottom and you can identify the orientation of your relay by using the position of the cover screw to know which side terminal 5 is located on. You can also just pull off one of the wires and square plates from a center terminal to see the ID stamp. On the governor, the OD wire will be the one connected to the exposed terminal on the bottom. If your car does not have the Electromatic Clutch the other wire should be coiled up and not connected to anything.
Attachments
R9 with fuse and reverse lockout.jpg
R9 solenoid terminals.jpg
R9 relay.jpg
Governor bottom.jpg

Olivierdejong
Posts: 162
Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2015 12:40 pm
Location: Brussels - Belgium
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Re: 1946 super Clipper overdrive does not engage

Post by Olivierdejong » Fri Jul 29, 2022 1:36 pm

Hello.

It took me some time to respond, sorry.
Thank you for your explanations, extremely complete as always.

The OD cable and knob are in place. It allows me to lock out the OD, but not to lock it in. For any reason, I have to help the movement with hand from underneath the car to engage. But disengage occurs normally with the knob. So I guess the cable is not broken, but it dosent move the lever far enough...
Now just after your explanation I was a bit lost as electric and I are not born the same day. And I didn’t exactly understand the wiring diagram.
But the next day I went for a 200 miles rally, and on this occasion, as always the knob and the lever were in position OD engaged. But no OD.
Then I slightly turned the knob to get the little green light on, and then, suddenly, I could use it normally: it switched on and off, with the engine revs, got the usual click sounds, even got the kick down, so finally a great drive.
And I guess we can then conclude to a wrong contact somewhere.
Olivier Dejong
+32 477 308 669
Packardclubbelgium@yahoo.com

Howard56
Posts: 1347
Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2012 11:35 am

Re: 1946 super Clipper overdrive does not engage

Post by Howard56 » Sat Jul 30, 2022 6:31 am

When you say "turned the knob", I presume you mean the knob on the overdrive lockout cable under the dash. If this is correct I suspect the actuating plunger on your lockout switch located on top and at the end of the bracket that holds he knob and cable may be worn and is making intermittent contact. Turning the knob would do nothing for the cable mechanically but the motion would affect where the switch plunger that makes contact with the knob shaft touches. If there is a groove worn in the plunger end then there is a good possibility the switch is just barely being activated some of the time and at other times, not at all. The slight pressure when you turn or wiggle the knob and shaft might be enough to move it the tiny bit more to operate the switch letting the OD engage. Vibration as the car is being driven can also cause the switch to open and close making the OD cut in and out.

You might remove the switch and take a look at the end of the black plunger. Once the wires are removed, the switch will unscrew but there will be a couple of bent up tabs on a piece of metal under the switch that keep the switch from moving. Those tabs will need to be bent flat so the switch can rotate and unscrew. If the switch plunger is worn and a small thin toothed lockwasher is still in place, that lockwasher can be removed and then the switch and tabbed metal put back on the bracket. Removing the lockwasher will allow the switch to be positioned a tiny bit farther down for a more positive engagement. Bending the tabs back up will still keep it from unscrewing. If the switch is worn and someone has already removed the lockwasher then you will need to find a less worn switch. There are a few for sale on ebay at the moment.
Attachments
IMG_0544.jpg
R9 AND R11 good lockout switch.jpg
R9 and R11 worn lockout sw.jpg

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