120 B Brake Drums

Discussions related to braking systems.
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sierrafrog
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:44 am

120 B Brake Drums

Post by sierrafrog » Mon Feb 28, 2011 3:40 pm

I am having difficulty removing the rear brake drums on my 1936 120B. I have removed the drum to backing plate seal ring, and the axle nut. The drum will not come off even using a hub puller attached to the brake drum. Am I missing something.

Thanks

Dave Czirr
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Location: New Jersey

Re: 120 B Brake Drums

Post by Dave Czirr » Mon Feb 28, 2011 8:17 pm

I trust you're using the proper type of drum puller, have you read the other posts here with pictures of the correct puller and method? If so, it's just a matter of keeping tension on the puller, perhaps a bit of heat applied to the drum hub, and then a lot of patience. Keep the nut on loosely to prevent damage to the axle end threads, and to prevent the drum from suddenly flying off and possibly injuring someone, or being damaged.

But it's very important that the brake shoes are not applied to the drum. Are you sure the parking brake is OFF? Can you actually rotate the drum freely? If not perhaps the shoes are catching a wear-lip on the edge of the drum. Use the shoe adjustment and retract the shoes if in doubt.

sierrafrog
Posts: 14
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:44 am

Re: 120 B Brake Drums

Post by sierrafrog » Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:34 am

Thanks for you input. I had the correct puller and they finally popped off. Your suggestion of leaving the nut on is a good one. I did not do that and the drum came off with some force but no damage. Thanks for your input.

Dave Czirr
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Posts: 5055
Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2009 5:30 am
Location: New Jersey

Re: 120 B Brake Drums

Post by Dave Czirr » Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:36 pm

Glad you got it off with no damage - they can be real buggers some times. I'm accumulating patience as I plan to remove the two rear drums from my 34 Eight in a couple of weeks for wheel bearing repacking and brake cable lubrication. One drum was off about 11 years ago, but the other hasn't been off since I relined the brakes back about 1968, so I'm expecting to have a bit of a struggle with them also.

When you reassemble, resist the temptation to use something like Never-sieze or light oil on the taper - that's a NO-NO! The keyway and key is insufficient to drive the wheel and it really depends on a good, tight jam-fit of clean, dry tapered surfaces. The axle nut needs to be very tight, not sure what torque to use as torque recommendations were not common in those days, but in later years with 7/8-14 threads, 200-270 lb-feet were recommended.

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